LOccitane en Provence Verbena Sorbet Ethyl maltol Dried fruit scent with a caramelized sugary scent. Caron Tubereuse Carolina HerreraAmber Desire I love the fruity effect of blackcurrant bud, which boosts juiciness in the top note of a fragrance. Dior Poison Oscar de la Renta Live in Love For many today people, its still a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, evoking plenty of prejudice. LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier Perfume Reviews. It takes around 400 kilos of flowers to produce one kilo of essential oil, and each tree provides around 10 kilos of flowers a year. Nerolis perfect in white florals, or in Colognes, which accent its citrus edge and its popular in fragrances for men, as well as for women. The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. Mariah Carey M. There are dozens of species of evergreen in the pine/fir family and the essential oils produced by each of them have subtly different qualities. The fruit can be round, or oval, depending on which species youre looking at and the skins can range from yellow or green to maroon. Burberry Brit The Organic Pharmacy Organic Glam. The main notes include lavender, ambergris, and woody notes. Creed Love in Black All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe. Botanically, dills known as Anethum graveolens, and originates from the Med, and southern Russia. From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. Tangerine and mandarin are basically interchangeable: their zestiness is instantly cheering - sweet, fruity, citrussy, with hints of neroli and just what perfumers often look for to lift the overture of a scent. Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Essential. But did you know that this stone-fruit is related to the cashew family? I had to see what it was like, then I fell totally in love with it. (Gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which you can read about in our Perfume History section, here.) we have some answers for you. So juicy, you can almost imagine this running down your chin: sweet, slightly tart, and of late cherrys become Miss Popularity in the perfume stakes, with the rise in pretty, girly fruity-florals. Donna Karan DKNY Guerlain Rose Barbare Kate Moss Kate Parle Moi de Parfum Totally White 'When you smell it, you can almost feel it smarting on your tongue'. The very best stuff comes from the three or four top pairs of leaves, where the highest concentration of the fragrant oil is found. Dior Diorama Herms Eau de Pamplemousse Rose A chemical compound that smells floral at low concentrations, but fecal at high concentrations. The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. Almond notes are very gourmand, with a foodie quality and most often enjoyed in fragrances within that almost good-enough-to-eat perfume family: almonds a less sweet alternative to vanilla, delivering a buttery or creamy impression. (Literally, it was a medium of exchange, a form of money.) Michael Kors Island The early Arab perfumers used labdanum in their recipes the sweetest-scented of all substances, as it was described, its links to perfumery actually go back to Egyptian time, when labdanum (a.k.a. Here, meanwhile, isperfumer Andy Tauer's unexpected take on using tobacco notes in his creations, which he shared with The Perfume Society. And with the profusion of gourmand fragrances out there, honey-lovers can easily find themselves in sweet heaven. What is eau de saucepan (or aeroplane wing) doing in fragrance? Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly angels trumpet (a.k.a. Dior Diorissimo David & Victoria Beckham Signature for Her The word bergamot derives from bergomotta in Italian and from Bergamum, a town in Italy. You may be able to make it out West Indian bay itself among the cinnamon, oil of cloves, citrus and other spice oils. Este Lauder Pleasures Crabtree & Evelyn Nadiora Guerlain Samsara Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. Guerlain Tonka Impriale The Three Kings famously presented frankincense as one of the gifts to Baby Jesus: THATs how far back frankincense goes. Mostly, water in fragrance ingredient terms has come to mean an oceanic, salty/seawater vibe which is actually recreated through the use of a complicated blend of synthetics. (And seems to work equally well on members of the opposite sex.) Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia LArtisan Parfumeur Mre et Musc Personally, we prefer to wear our guaiac wood, for an air of mystery. Clive Christian C for Women Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Grain des Plaisir Chanel Cristalle Demeter Gin & Tonic Fragonard Fragonard The fern most widely used in perfumery is the Common Male Fern, which grows widely in Britain and the rest of Europe. Serge Lutens A La Nuit I use it for feminine and masculine fragrances: it gives an "openness" and sensuality to fragrances. Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir The plant itself has dark green leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the star-shaped seedpods. Bergamot blends well with other aromatics, which is why it is so popular in fragrance.". Perhaps unsurprisingly, frangipani pairs well with ingredients from tropical fruits, and coconut. (Many naturals are positively timid on the skin.). This spice is used quite widely in perfumery as well as a wide range of foods and medicines, too, produced everywhere from South America to Malaysia, the Caribbean, Japan and Africa. Arabian perfumes lend a sense of regality and luxury. Revlon Charlie Blue. LArtisan Parfumer Dzing! Rich, warm, luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes, or add touches of amberiness. When you read the note incense in a fragrance, if often means frankincense. Sunday Brunch is the most luminous blend of citruses and florals, including Italian bergamot, Earl Grey tea & jasmine. I use it whenever I want to create a transportive beach moment," says perfumer Patty Hidalgo. During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. ), Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta Boadicea the Victorious Invigorating It can range in colour from light green to black depending on whether its dry or damp - and it smells a lot more beautiful than it looks. So why does forget-me-not sometimes appear as a fragrance ingredient? Sniff one of the fragrances below, and we think youll agree. But a citron fruit (Citrus medica) is rarer than a lemon and not nearly so juicy. Issey Miyake A Scent by Issey Miyake It can actually be created in nature through the activity of a bacteria called Streptomyces, along with a special enzyme. The note has a mystical air to it: in the language of plants, its been linked with prosperity, fidelity, virtue and positivity. Amouage Memoir Woman Nasomatto Hindu Grass Calvin Klein Euphoria It smells like cinnamon. They are French too, which means they are highly respected in the business. Some people find it salty, smooth, skin-like (it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively! Aldehydes triggered a revolution in perfumery. Perfumery isnt the most familiar use of flax (a.k.a. "There's no household in Mexico where tuberose sprigs aren't set up in vases, perfuming the whole atmosphere like there's no tomorrow. Where she touched the ground, beautiful iris flowers grew out of her footprints. (In concentrated form, benzyl alcohol can also work as a treatment for head lice although we dont for a moment recommend dousing your childs scalp in a favourite white floral scent). Acqua di Stresa Acqua di Stresa Nez Nez Atelier dArtiste Both are lovely, but the poodle mostly just hops and jumps. Its mostly the foliage (from trees grown in the Atlas mountains of Morocco, or Virginia in the USA) that is steam-distilled to produce the intense oil, which is also used in aromatherapy for calming and balancing. A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) freesia. It is an extremely rich, warm, and voluptuous rose odor with a hint of honey. Same sweetness but more subtle. In Greek and Roman times, heroes were garlanded by laurel another name for bay - as a symbol of victory. Voluptuous, so voluptuous. Its burned today in Catholic churches and Anglican high church ceremonies and perhaps as a result, its a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, depending on whether you were forced to sit through endless sermons and hymns on Sundays. The Different Company Sienne dOrange. Perfumers have to use ionones with a light touch, though: they can actually desensitise the nose. Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. In aromatherapy, pomelos used for energizing which is exactly what it delivers in a perfume. ), FreshCannabis Rose These ingredients consist of herbal and synthetic materials. Highly aromatic, merely brushing against the dark green leaves releases the potent scent, all varieties of the plant have some common characteristics - mostly perennial, mint simply adores to be near water, pools and in partial shade. Evody Fleur dOranger Diptyque LEau Dior Bois dArgent . Dainty little sweet-scented purple flowers. Its summer in a bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, but (unsurprisingly) sweet at the same time. And there is a quality that says "bathroom, used, not cleaned for a while", and so much more. Floris Seringa It is more theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale. Balmain Ambre Gris 5 that changed everything literally sending perfumery on a new, modern trajectory, opening up a world of richness and strength. As with many fruit ingredients, grapes are having their moment in the sun, thanks to fragrance fashion. This warm and complex resin is sometimes perceived as leathery, sometimes honey-like, with hints of plum. One of the reasons its so widely used now is that it mimics the scent of ambergris its also referred to as amber but its also a fixative, helping other ingredients to stay true, and to stay put. In India, meanwhile, camphor lends its pungency to cooking. (Dont worry: we wont test you.) A really expensive fragrance material one of the priciest in the world, in fact - boronia comes from a fragrant shrub native to Australia. Well, these days you wont only find this liqueur in a glass, but in some gourmand fragrances. 1) By Rosie Jane Price: $28-70. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Many of us are familiar with blackberry-picking ourselves: the Rubus fruticosus bramble tangles itself over countless hedgerows, perfect for turning into desserts, jams, jellies and even home-made wine. Of all the fragrance ingredients out there, lavenders probably the most widely recognised (even if blindfolded) for its soothing, calming aromatic qualities. The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. The smell is to attract the type of insect that pollinates the plant: some clearly get off on pretty smells, others on stinkers.). Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine As the demand for natural perfumes mounts - market research firm The NPD Group estimates sales of prestige natural fragrances climbed 32% last year - a debate is brewing among natural scent brands over what roles synthetic ingredients can play in formulations, if any. Lush Smell of Weather Turning Another important ingredient in masculine perfumes is vetiver. Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Yves Saint Laurent Y. it actually stops minor wounds bleeding.) (Although some scholars and were really not qualified to argue think that the cassia plant of old is inferior to the one still used today in teas, ointments and perfumery.) But we do know that the Arabs brought this evergreen tree to Europe in around the 8th Century; lemon later made its way to America through seeds carried on Christopher Columbuss ship, in 1493. The seeds - from the fruit of the Dypterix Odorata tree - are black and wrinkled, and when grated give off pleasant aromas of sweet spice, vanilla, praline and almond. Goutal Quel Amour! 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